So in my last post I was talking about the trains and didn't even mention the train-bathroom situation, which I will continue to spare you all. I did mention that it was a great place to read .. on this last ride I had the opportunity to read a whole book which happened (in conjunction with some honest thoughts shared by friends and family, and some personal work in my own heart) to aid in a shift of my perspective on this trip. The book is "The Alchemist" by Paulo Coehlo and the message is basically that a journey takes you places that you never intend to go when you set out on the journey, but you go and you learn and because of it all you are never the same. It is about following through with a dream even, and especially, when times are difficult and the goal may appear to be lost.
I was reminded through this reading, through talking with Phillip, through making some friends in Kodaikanal and my reading my aunts words ("maybe your prefer the absurdity of traveling in India to the absurdity of not") that I can travel the world and learn about her peoples, but that doesn't mean I have to like all I see. I realized this and suddenly felt completely content in the cramped berth of our 44 hour train ride.
Now we are here in Mcleodganj with the Dhauladar mountains looming behind us, showing their icy white teeth at the sky. It is cold here and the town is a little escape from the intensity that is India. It is more of a Tibetan town with monks all over the streets. There is no shortage of good food here, our favorite place is a japanese restaurant whose proceeds all go to support ex-political prisoners from Tibet. And we can drink lemon ginger honey tea all day! And I can practice yoga on our roof top terrace!
There are lots of opportunities to volunteer here that all sound interesting ... teaching english, babysitting, working in shop that sells refugee-made goods ... but they are open to long term visitors. It is nice to know we have these potentially meaningful options if we want to come back here after farming. We will stay for a few more days and then go to Dharamsala, about 12 km lower than here, to WWOOF for the next 2 months or so.
Tomorrow we will go hear the Dalai Lama speak in the early morning at the main Buddhist temple here. I think it is a puja for the tenth Panchen Lama but am not totally sure. We visited there today and walked around, saw a glorious sun set and turned the "Mani" prayer wheels in the temple.
Pictures to come soon (hopefully ...)
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Peace and Merryness
Well ... i am estimating we have come across 2/3rds of the country since the last time i wrote, so there is lots i'd like to say! Most of that will not happen tonight, because my primary message is to say Merry Christmas to all of our family and friends where ever you may be. I hope everyone had a warm and peacefull holiday.
We are now in Mcleodganj, in Himachel Pradesh, North West India. This is the town where the Dalai Lama lives, as well as many (i don't know numbers) Tibetans in exile. Immediatly we felt welcome and comfortable here. Something about the mountains ... i have known for a long time that my soul is called by mountains, that i feel at home when i am in them, and it is in the mountains that i find it easiest to connect with the Universal Spirit as it moves in and around me and all things. It is easy to be here and feel like myself and both Phillip and i welcome this comfort.
Getting here was a long haul in very close quarters. We have ridden enough trains to last us for a while i think. It is really the most practical way to travel this country, but so different than any way many Americans would ever think to travel. We ride in the regular class cars, not AC so we sit sharing a space of maybe 8 feet by 6 feet with 4 other strangers (atleast) for as long as the train ride lasts. You sleep, eat, sit and stare all on the same surface. It is dirty and hot and cold. There is constant noise. But really, it's the way to go and i feel lucky to share the experience. I would never have one like this anywhere else in the world. And it's a great place to read.
More later, the internet is going to sleep for tonight.
We are now in Mcleodganj, in Himachel Pradesh, North West India. This is the town where the Dalai Lama lives, as well as many (i don't know numbers) Tibetans in exile. Immediatly we felt welcome and comfortable here. Something about the mountains ... i have known for a long time that my soul is called by mountains, that i feel at home when i am in them, and it is in the mountains that i find it easiest to connect with the Universal Spirit as it moves in and around me and all things. It is easy to be here and feel like myself and both Phillip and i welcome this comfort.
Getting here was a long haul in very close quarters. We have ridden enough trains to last us for a while i think. It is really the most practical way to travel this country, but so different than any way many Americans would ever think to travel. We ride in the regular class cars, not AC so we sit sharing a space of maybe 8 feet by 6 feet with 4 other strangers (atleast) for as long as the train ride lasts. You sleep, eat, sit and stare all on the same surface. It is dirty and hot and cold. There is constant noise. But really, it's the way to go and i feel lucky to share the experience. I would never have one like this anywhere else in the world. And it's a great place to read.
More later, the internet is going to sleep for tonight.
Friday, December 18, 2009
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Welcoming the Cool Rain
In spite of the heat, we kept going south. We went as far south as we could in India, to a place called Kanyakumari. And it was HOT. Sweltering. All day and night too. Geographically exciting, this is the southernmost point of the Indian Subcontinent, and also where the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, and Indian Ocean meet. Also exciting if you are a Hindu Pilgrim coming to bathe in these sacred waters or visiting the Kanya Devi temple ... otherwise it felt like the Myrtle Beach of India. People sold trinkets, cotton candy and popcorn all along the ghats and bazaar, and prices everywhere were heavily inflated because of all the Indian tourists. Also of note is the fact that the Kanya Devi temple was conveniently located directly across from our room. Every morning it began the festivities at 4 AM with chanting, microphones, music, and much chatter outside in the streets. Oh Boy!
We had to flee the heat and humidity, but before we could get out Phillip ordered a shrimp curry dish that sent us to the bathroom for more than 8 hours straight. If Tarcus Maylor is reading this...I would have written POOP OOZE on my fingers with a sharpie if I'd had the strength...seriously...
We recuperated, sort of, under a fan for one day before taking a night bus to Kodaikanal and getting dropped off in the dark and rain of 5:15 AM.
We are now here, in Kodaikanal, Tamil Nadu in the Western Ghats. Where we are staying, we can see the sharp, relatively young mountains when the clouds occasionally clear. It is much cooler (50-60 degrees) and consistently drizzly so far. We have been able to regain our health and are taking this time to rest and enjoy a place that is more similar to our home in the Blue Ridge Mountains than any other wild, chaotic city we have been in in India yet.
Pictures soon to come...the clouds are covering up the breathtaking scenery here.
Please think of us, as we are having a difficult time so far. We have yet to really find our calling here. The cities are so stifling and smog-filled that it generally drains us of energy and patience. We are trying to trust our direction. Feel free to post questions or comments on this blog...if you feel so inclined (haah)!
We had to flee the heat and humidity, but before we could get out Phillip ordered a shrimp curry dish that sent us to the bathroom for more than 8 hours straight. If Tarcus Maylor is reading this...I would have written POOP OOZE on my fingers with a sharpie if I'd had the strength...seriously...
We recuperated, sort of, under a fan for one day before taking a night bus to Kodaikanal and getting dropped off in the dark and rain of 5:15 AM.
We are now here, in Kodaikanal, Tamil Nadu in the Western Ghats. Where we are staying, we can see the sharp, relatively young mountains when the clouds occasionally clear. It is much cooler (50-60 degrees) and consistently drizzly so far. We have been able to regain our health and are taking this time to rest and enjoy a place that is more similar to our home in the Blue Ridge Mountains than any other wild, chaotic city we have been in in India yet.
Pictures soon to come...the clouds are covering up the breathtaking scenery here.
Please think of us, as we are having a difficult time so far. We have yet to really find our calling here. The cities are so stifling and smog-filled that it generally drains us of energy and patience. We are trying to trust our direction. Feel free to post questions or comments on this blog...if you feel so inclined (haah)!
Monday, December 7, 2009
Here we go?
so, we are here in India! now let's see if i can sketch a picture of what the week has been like with enough details of both the logistics and my feelings ...
over 24 hours of traveling and we arrived to the Mumbai airport at midnight. thankfully our hotel sent a taxi to meet us, other wise we may have been swallowed and digested by the crowds outside of the airport. the hotel was decent enough, and the staff was very helpful.
the following day we took a taxi to the south end of Mumbai called Colaba. this first experience with India drivers made it clear: there's chaos in the streets here. No real lanes discriminate where to drive so people just drive where ever there is room, honking their horns if they need to make more room. seriously, where ever there is a bit of room. we went maybe 25 Km and it took almost 2 hours because of traffic. while looking around from the taxi window i thought "we could never walk around here", as people were everywhere begging, selling, walking or squatting and buildings, slums, cars, and animals took up any extra inch of room.
i was here less than 12 hours before confronted with India's poverty face to face. i am not used to looking someone who is begging in the eye, seeing their hunger, and then turning down their need. it happened first with a young woman and her baby. now every day, multiple times a day people come to use with open hands. i see them do this to other Indians as well and the Indians ignore them. that seems to be the route to take, ignore or say no. i don't know if i will ever get used to this. however it is likely a disservice to give hand outs of money to the hundreds (this is a huge underestimation) of people who live on the streets and make a life out of begging. and i can't just give money out to help the worlds hungry people. this is a bigger problem than a few coins can solve. it is cultural, political, envioroment ... a world struggle.
we stayed in Mumbai for one more night and explored what we could of the south corner of town. to sum up the city of Mumbai i will use Phillip's words: Raw, Unadulterated Development.
i rode on the first train of my life from Mumbai to Bangalore. it was 24 hours long and a great opportunity to observe Indian life. we were lucky to sit with some Indian fellows who eventually became our friends, after both parties observed that the other was trustworthy. i felt so happy to make a connection with people here, even in the short time we were on the train. that is what we want here: connections with regular Indian people.
Now, we are in Mysore. we have been here 2 days and will stay for a few more. it is a smaller city, but still large on our Boone-scales. much about city traveling has been overwhelming so far. i am hoping to retreat somewhere more peacefull, do some WWOOFing on a farm, or volunteering in the near future. it is a strange feeling right now to be traveling only for the sake of traveling, with out a defined purpose. this is something very different culturally for us and Indians. many of them never have the chance to leave their country, especially with out a purpose. For us, sure, there is a purpose, but it is hard to see clearly what that is and how to follow it out at this time.
India has pushed my limits so far, the hardest thing being not able to just naturally trust that people have good intentions in your relationship with them. i can't just go around smiling at strangers like i do in the US. but there are many little things that are deeply joyful. eating the deliciously spicy food with my hands is one of them. also, there are little shrines and temples everywhere. people sit on the corners selling jasmine flowers to use as offerings at these small shrines. the head wobbles that every Indian does here which means "maybe" "yes" "whatever" or "i have no idea" makes me giggle to myself all the time. these things, and the fact that phillip and i have each other, and the non-stop learning ... this keeps my attitude positive and long distance view hopeful.
this is a large update but dont miss our PICTURES BELOW!!! they are from this first week of traveling
over 24 hours of traveling and we arrived to the Mumbai airport at midnight. thankfully our hotel sent a taxi to meet us, other wise we may have been swallowed and digested by the crowds outside of the airport. the hotel was decent enough, and the staff was very helpful.
the following day we took a taxi to the south end of Mumbai called Colaba. this first experience with India drivers made it clear: there's chaos in the streets here. No real lanes discriminate where to drive so people just drive where ever there is room, honking their horns if they need to make more room. seriously, where ever there is a bit of room. we went maybe 25 Km and it took almost 2 hours because of traffic. while looking around from the taxi window i thought "we could never walk around here", as people were everywhere begging, selling, walking or squatting and buildings, slums, cars, and animals took up any extra inch of room.
i was here less than 12 hours before confronted with India's poverty face to face. i am not used to looking someone who is begging in the eye, seeing their hunger, and then turning down their need. it happened first with a young woman and her baby. now every day, multiple times a day people come to use with open hands. i see them do this to other Indians as well and the Indians ignore them. that seems to be the route to take, ignore or say no. i don't know if i will ever get used to this. however it is likely a disservice to give hand outs of money to the hundreds (this is a huge underestimation) of people who live on the streets and make a life out of begging. and i can't just give money out to help the worlds hungry people. this is a bigger problem than a few coins can solve. it is cultural, political, envioroment ... a world struggle.
we stayed in Mumbai for one more night and explored what we could of the south corner of town. to sum up the city of Mumbai i will use Phillip's words: Raw, Unadulterated Development.
i rode on the first train of my life from Mumbai to Bangalore. it was 24 hours long and a great opportunity to observe Indian life. we were lucky to sit with some Indian fellows who eventually became our friends, after both parties observed that the other was trustworthy. i felt so happy to make a connection with people here, even in the short time we were on the train. that is what we want here: connections with regular Indian people.
Now, we are in Mysore. we have been here 2 days and will stay for a few more. it is a smaller city, but still large on our Boone-scales. much about city traveling has been overwhelming so far. i am hoping to retreat somewhere more peacefull, do some WWOOFing on a farm, or volunteering in the near future. it is a strange feeling right now to be traveling only for the sake of traveling, with out a defined purpose. this is something very different culturally for us and Indians. many of them never have the chance to leave their country, especially with out a purpose. For us, sure, there is a purpose, but it is hard to see clearly what that is and how to follow it out at this time.
India has pushed my limits so far, the hardest thing being not able to just naturally trust that people have good intentions in your relationship with them. i can't just go around smiling at strangers like i do in the US. but there are many little things that are deeply joyful. eating the deliciously spicy food with my hands is one of them. also, there are little shrines and temples everywhere. people sit on the corners selling jasmine flowers to use as offerings at these small shrines. the head wobbles that every Indian does here which means "maybe" "yes" "whatever" or "i have no idea" makes me giggle to myself all the time. these things, and the fact that phillip and i have each other, and the non-stop learning ... this keeps my attitude positive and long distance view hopeful.
this is a large update but dont miss our PICTURES BELOW!!! they are from this first week of traveling
Yes, Yes, you are from, sir?
Mumbai, Marine Drive
Sweet Elisabeth pondering by the ocean
I don't know if this well ever take...
Our 27hr train buddies Rakesh...
and Santosh. Namaste to both of you.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Why travel to India?
My first response is "Why Not!?" She has called and I am coming. Of course she has called Phillip and I in different ways, and i can only speak for my Self. Here I aim to put words to the desires of my heart that are leading me to India ...
i want to experience the land and its colorful palette of people, many languages, spirits and forms that the science of Yoga was uncovered in.
This culture is sure to be foreign in comparison to the ways of the US that i have been raised in. Here in the states i hear claims of respecting and honoring each persons individuality, but i see evidence that the real goals are aimed at homogeniety and comfort instead of understanding honest differences.
i want to dip into the cornucopia of different that is India. i want to experience spirituality in all the many shapes that Spirit takes. i want to find a comfortable seat, an Asana, and experience Yoga with life, off of my sticky mat.
i intend to travel "close to the ground", as a friend put it, with only my back pack and my Love, refining what is truly necessary each day. in the experiences yet to unfold i aim to learn of India's food, prayers, rituals, chores, stories and songs ... to hike and ride and see ... to Discover a land and its people and its beauty in wild and tame forms. Through these discoveries i ultimitely hope to discover my Self in a deeper way.
Here we go!
i want to experience the land and its colorful palette of people, many languages, spirits and forms that the science of Yoga was uncovered in.
This culture is sure to be foreign in comparison to the ways of the US that i have been raised in. Here in the states i hear claims of respecting and honoring each persons individuality, but i see evidence that the real goals are aimed at homogeniety and comfort instead of understanding honest differences.
i want to dip into the cornucopia of different that is India. i want to experience spirituality in all the many shapes that Spirit takes. i want to find a comfortable seat, an Asana, and experience Yoga with life, off of my sticky mat.
i intend to travel "close to the ground", as a friend put it, with only my back pack and my Love, refining what is truly necessary each day. in the experiences yet to unfold i aim to learn of India's food, prayers, rituals, chores, stories and songs ... to hike and ride and see ... to Discover a land and its people and its beauty in wild and tame forms. Through these discoveries i ultimitely hope to discover my Self in a deeper way.
Here we go!
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
It's time for PICTURES!
Well, if you haven't figured it out, this is a blog pertaining to travels around the Indian Subcontinent. We're glad you're checking it out! As of today we have just under 2 weeks until we depart for India, so I thought I'd upload some of my favorite photos from the last time I was in India. I hope you enjoy...
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